Flashlights & Headlamps

How to choose a headlamp for hiking

Lumens vs runtime: the maximum lumen rating is almost never the number you use in practice. A 600-lumen burst mode that runs for 2 hours is less useful on a long trail than 150 lumens running for 15 hours. Check the mid-mode runtime, not the peak. The Petzl Actik Core at 300 lumens runs for around 8 hours — that's enough for a 12-hour winter day with some reserve. The Fenix HL60R at 1200 lumens peak is impressive but on its highest setting you'll drain the battery in under 3 hours.

IPX rating: IPX4 means splash-proof from any direction. IPX6 means jet-proof. IPX8 means submersible. For UK walking in rain and mud, IPX4 is fine for most purposes. If you're doing canyoning, river crossings or winter mountaineering where the lamp might end up submerged, go for IPX8 (Black Diamond Spot 400).

Battery type: Rechargeable is more convenient and cheaper long-term — most headlamps now charge via USB-C. The Petzl Actik Core is worth noting for its dual system: primary is the CORE rechargeable battery, but if it dies mid-route you can swap in standard AAA batteries. This is genuinely useful in the field when you don't have a power source. Pure Li-ion models like the Fenix and Ledlenser need a power bank to recharge.

Red mode matters more than people expect. Red light preserves your night vision for map reading, maintaining trail awareness or camp use without destroying your dark adaptation. Any serious headlamp should have it. All four models above include it.

Cold weather: battery output drops significantly below 0°C. Li-ion batteries lose 20–30% capacity at -10°C. If you're winter camping or mountaineering, either carry a spare battery kept warm in an inner pocket, or keep the lamp close to your body in cold conditions. The Actik Core's AAA backup is again useful here.