Ropes & Safety

How to choose and use a climbing rope

Diameter vs weight: thinner ropes (9.1–9.4mm) are lighter and clip through quickdraws more easily, but they wear faster and require compatible belay devices. The Beal Joker at 9.1mm is only suitable if your belay device's manufacturer specifies that diameter. Thicker ropes like the Mammut 9.5mm and Petzl Arial 9.6mm are more forgiving for beginners, work in almost all standard devices, and last longer under regular use.

Dry treatment is worth it for UK outdoor climbing. A non-dry rope absorbs water in wet conditions, gains significant weight, and loses elasticity — which means it transmits more force to the climber and anchor in a fall. Standard dry (sheath only, like the Mammut Crag Classic) is fine for most cragging. Full dry treatment on both core and sheath (Black Diamond, Beal Joker) is what you want for multipitch, alpine, or regular use in wet conditions.

Length: 60m covers the majority of UK sport and trad routes. Some modern routes and long sport crags need 70m — the Black Diamond 9.4mm 70m is built for this. Always check the route guide before assuming 60m is enough. Running out of rope above an anchor on a lowering is a serious situation.

Rope retirement: UIAA recommends retiring a rope after 1 fall factor 1.7+, or after regular use of 3–5 years regardless of visible condition. Check for flat spots, stiff sections, core shot (inner strands visible), or glassy sheath feel. If in any doubt, retire it. A rope is cheap relative to the cost of what it protects.

Storage: coil loosely, keep away from direct sunlight, chemicals and acids (including car battery acid). Store dry. Do not stand on a rope. After outdoor use, hand-wash in cool water with mild soap and air-dry out of direct sun before coiling for storage.